flapwad

Got the prop shaft off no problem, but can't budge the prop adaptor. I've broken 2 gear pullers trying and it won't budge. Tried heating with no luck. Any ideas?

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

More heat along with the puller. High heat will destroy the magnet so the whole hub will have to be replaced. If you broke the pullers, they must not have been very heavy duty ones. I usually preload the puller then tap the end of it to dislodge the hub. Most likely they got an excessive amount of Loctite in the keyway really locking it in place. The Loctite they use is very heat resistant. When excessive force is required, be sure to check the shaft threads for runout before reassembly.

If you don't want to try another puller, you can make your own puller by using a small steel plate (1/4" or 3/8" thick) with holes drilled in it where the prop bolts would normally go. Using some shorter than normal bolts inserted through the plate into the hub and with the plate resting on the crank threads (a spacer may be needed) tighten the bolts evenly just a bit at a time with lots of thread engagement so you don't strip the threads. As you tighten them, the hub should pop loose. Again, you can preload the bolts and then heat the hub. The hardest one I ever took off was on a Brison engine. Nasty and I created a few new and creative swear words in the process.

BadAzzMaxx

Prop drill jig, mount to prop hub with short screws (Long enough to go all the way down in the prop hub) then run screw down the center of drill jig.


Milton

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Was going to suggest that but unless you face off the end of the center bolt it may deform the threads on the end of the crank. I just make holding and pulling fixtures from strap steel. Takes just a few minutes to make and it gives you a handle to hold while the bolts are tightened. Any method will work including a normal puller.

CK1

My Feedback: (60)

Yup totally agree with Milton and Truckracer
Preload with pressure from puller , heat the hub (use a torch or heat gun , a hairdryer won't get it hot enough) , strike the head of the puller bolt with a heavy brass or steel hammer , strike sides of hub with a hard surface mallet if you intend to re use the hub , " repeat as needed.

flapwad

Came off easily using jack screws and drilled aluminum bar stock, as several of you suggested, thanks. Unfortunately I didn't find the problem I was hoping for (sheared woodruff key and slipped timing) so back to trying to figure out why it's acting like the timing is WAY off. It's snorting and popping and backfiring and trying to run backwards, just about shaking the airframe to flinders at low speed. I did have a prop strike previously so was hoping it was just a sheared key. Runouts on the crank and prop shaft are less than 0.001", so nothing is bent.

Truckracer

My Feedback: (19)

Bad sensor or perhaps a bad plug cap. Either of these can cause the snorting or popping problem but not wanting to run backwards. Anyway, glad you got the hub off. Did the magnet survive the removal process?

flapwad

Yeah, didn't even need to heat it up to get it loose. Tried a swapping in a different ignition box and it behaves the same, so not plug cap or ignition. Also tried a new plug (NGK). I'll try a different sensor next.